Caveat Reader: this column is best understood with a copy of a Cook County map and Business Directory, available free at Visit Cook County which is east of the Dairy Queen in Grand Marais.
We had sheltered-in enough. Independence Day called for some special, socially- distanced adventure. We chose moose hunting with our cameras. We planned to start with Greenwood Road, continue east along the northernmost route to the end of Old Highway 61, and then head south on an unnamed, dotted road to Grand Portage. The finish was to cross Mineral Center Road back to Old 61 and home at last. Of course, we went in reverse.
Old Highway 61 leaves its successor as County Road 17, just east of Reservation River. It does not appear to be heavily traveled, and there are few lakes and swamps that moose like. There are many trees. We arrived at the junction of 17 and 89 and, believing in continuity, we followed 17 east. Well, Mineral Center no longer exists physically, and that right turn took us to Grand Portage and a dead-end well past the casino. It turns out that, without warning, Old 61 changes from 17 to County Road 89.
One of the places where Steve Aldrich ended up on a recent journey was Partridge Falls. But, instead of driving down the nearly impassable road, go to the Grand Portage State Park and park your vehicle and walk towards High Falls. Stop and take the Middle Falls trail and near the end of that trail take the left fork to Partridge Falls. Photo courtesy of Kim Dirks
Backtracking to 89 on 17, we found our way to the end of Old 61. The Pigeon River Bridge has been removed (to International Falls, I was told). In its place is a barrier preceded by the clearing of Ryden’s store until they moved with the border crossing in early 1964. Alert: No, outhouses. In Canada, across the Pigeon River is a pretty little building whose sign we could not read without the field glasses we had left behind. Perhaps one of our faithful readers knows what the building is or does.
We went back southwest on 89 and were moved to check out Partridge Falls Road. Do not try this without all- or four-wheel drive. The 4.5 miles leading to the Falls is a 15-mph adventure. Tactfully described as “minimally maintained” by one publication, it is one lane with occasional wide spots, manageable potholes, and many embedded rocks. There was one space on the south side that looked like a retired trailer parking pad. Otherwise, you need to plan to go to the end unless you want to back out. Or share the narrow shoulders with an oncoming car as we did.
The end of the road was rewarding. Another couple was just finishing their trip to the base of the Falls, and they shared their learning and a selfie from the hill’s bottom. A gentle walk down the hill about a half-mile gets to the top of the Falls. The more adventuresome will continue down a steeper trail that needs the roots and handhold trees for safe traverse. Another day. Thanks to an MHS Minnesota Place Names Internet entry, we know the upper part of Partridge Falls is 30 feet high with a lower 10-foot extension. The water ran briskly; do not fall in, especially at the top.
On the return trip, our map said Rengo Road turned west just south of Partridge Falls Road. We looked in vain for a sign of Rengo Road. Sadly, we returned to our paved U.S. 61 via unpaved Old 61 and were glad to find the Subway open for edibles at the end of our four-hour, moose-less adventure. We did see a partridge.
There are a few bones to pick about the map. Not all named roads appear, and some that do appear, such as the east end of County 14, are not named sufficiently. There appears to be a road-like line from near Big Bay Road north to the old border crossing. It is unnamed and we found nothing like it as we poked around. The map does not show Old 61 changing numbers. And you cannot see the complexity of County 55, below.
Wandering County 55. Anyone reading this will take the Gunflint Trail: to golf, get a plane ride, buy lumber, view leaf colors, or stay at the many resorts along the way. Every time you take the Trail, you will see County Road 55 several times. That struck me as odd. So, after a Juneteenth golf date with Pete Ryden and golf manager Paul Jones, I decided to unravel the mysteries.
Take the Gunflint Trail to the City-owned golf course and turn right on County 55, aka Golf Course Road. Then go left along the 8th hole until it reaches the Trail again. Crossing the Trail, 55 becomes School House Road. Continue north to a 90-degree right turn and cross the Trail again. Then another left, north back to the Trail at its junction with County Road 60. Perhaps the Historical Society can explain a road that goes right, left, right, and left while crossing our Trail several times.
Having exhausted County 55, you now have some choices most of us have not made. You can take a right on County 60 to its end at the western version of County 14 and go back to Highway 61 west of Covill. The fainthearted may take a shorter route from 60 to County 58 south-southeast to 61 West of Croftville.
N.B.: On neither of our trips were any moose spotted. Next time we will go where they might actually be present if you tell us where that is.
Steve Aldrich is a retired Hennepin County lawyer, mediator, and Judge, serving from 1997-2010. He and his wife moved here in 2016. He likes to remember that he was a Minnesota Super Lawyer before being elected to the bench. Now he is among the most vulnerable to viruses. Steve really enjoys doing weddings, the one thing a retired judge can do without appointment by the Chief Justice. He has never officiated at a Skype, Zoom, or Google Team wedding.
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